I know this sounds like a stupid question but you would be surprised by how many investigators I have met that shrug when asked “do you know what makes that work?” If you are going to use any devices during a paranormal investigation, it is best to know how those devices work before you get to a location. I’m not talking about just reading what the manufacturer tells you on their webpage or what the cool guy on that popular paranormal tv show says. I mean take it out of the package and test it in a variety of settings inside and outside of your home. Try to understand the concept behind what makes your device work. Is it a REMpod which uses an oscillator to create an EM field? Is it a shadow tracker that relies on UV photo sensors that detect UV light bouncing back from a calibrated distance? Are you using an SLS camera that utilizes an infrared light projector with the light grid allowing the camera to calculate depth of field and movement? These are very important concepts to understand especially once you start combining some of these pieces of equipment. 

A good example is the paranormal music box. IR sensors on the front of the device will calibrate when the device is first turned on by bouncing an IR light off of a flat surface back to the device.  After calibration, if the distance of the bounce (time it takes the light to return to the box) becomes shorter, the device will trigger. This allows the device to detect movement. If you use the paranormal music box with the SLS camera, you will get false responses because the IR projector on the SLS camera will interfere with the IR sensor on the music box. My team learned this after attempting to have a conversation with something at Waverly Hills that seemed to be setting off the music box for about 20 minutes. When the person with the SLS camera walked away, the activity stopped. We played around by pointing the SLS camera in different directions and found that the paranormal music box was reacting to the SLS camera. 

How do you test your devices? I recommend having an EM pump on hand to test everything for EMF sensitivity. Also, have a digital EMF reader so you can see the actual EM field changes instead of just guessing with a KII. Next, put your device in some strange places like next to a wifi router, near an active microwave, in your refrigerator, next to your TV while in antenna mode, next to the TV while streaming a show online, next to your cell phone while looking up information on the internet, on your furnace, on an air conditioner, and even while using other devices such as walkie talkies. You get the idea. (This is also a good way to learn about the different EM fields in  your own home so double win.) Think of anything that may cause your device to react.  If it has a sensor that must reflect back, then aim the device at mirrors, framed photos, windows, or curio cabinets. I have also used things like amplifiers to test sound reactions and humidifiers to test what happens to a device in a higher humidity situation. The goal is to have an idea of what may or may not set off your device before you ever walk into a location. This will cut down on time spent debunking your equipment on site. If you follow me on Facebook, you will occasionally see videos I have created testing different pieces of equipment. If you have questions about how to test equipment or even have things you have tested you want to share, please feel free to comment here and on my Facebook page. I believe we are a community of knowledge seekers and every bit of information obtained gets us all one step closer to having a better understanding of our world. 

Good luck with your tests and I wish you productive investigations. Until next time, Happy Hunting!